This article will show the installation of a concealed shower valve as part of a typical bathroom installation in Leeds by ukbathroom guru.
As is often the case, the most minimalist installations with the least visible components often require the most work. This is because it’s often very difficult to make things look simple.
For example this simple wall mounted basin belies the fact the behind the scenes there are a lot of things going on:
- strategically placed concealed hot & cold feeds that will be hidden by the semi pedestal (but not clash with the trap or pedestal!) with isolating valves for future maintenance.
- concealed waste pipes, hidden behind the finished wall surface, running into other pipes to carry away waste water, fixed in position to maintain adequate falls.
- A carefully orientated concealed wooden framework allows for pipes and electrical cables to be hidden behind the finished wall surface and also allows for structural support for the basin & semi pedestal.
(You can see the bolts that will hold the basin to the wall firmly fixed into the carefully positioned timber noggins above, and also where the screws for the semi pedestal will locate into the noggins below – crucially without hitting any concealed supply or waste pipework!)
PS See here for more on this particular installation
The same is true for fitting a concealed shower valve – there is a lot going on behind the scenes, and is therefore this type of shower is not always suitable for all applications. This is mainly due to the depth of the valve and the necessity that 50% of it (normally 3-4”) remain hidden behind the finished wall surface:
Fitting a concealed shower valve
In the pictures above you will see:
- A solid brick wall that was previously rendered has been stripped back to brick as the render was found to be blown.
- The solid wall does not allow the valve to be sunk into it so the valve is attached to the face of the wall, which is then studded out with 4”x2” timber studs to accommodate the depth of the valve body which remains 50% hidden when fully installed.
- This studwork allows the pipework to be hidden behind the finished wall surface.
- Studding out the wall obviously makes the room a little bit smaller but enables us to build a completely level and flat wall that is square to the adjacent wall (to allow easy fitting of the shower tray in this instance.) This also helps with tiling the walls.
- The valve needs to be levelled up so that once the plasterboard is attached to the wooden studs and slid over the valve, the protruding controls are level and square to the wall.
Top TipTo achieve this it is easier to attach a piece of 18mm plywood to the brick wall and level and square this up with packers (and then attach the valve to this) rather than trying to attach the valve directly to the brickwork.
- Hot and cold water feeds flow separately into the valve at the bottom, and the mixed water flows out of the valve at the top at the temperature determined by the bottom (temperature) control.
- Depending on which way the top control is turned will determine whether the mixed water flows to the fixed shower head or the riser rail shower head, which each has its own feed from the valve.
- Finally a cover plate slides over the valve controls to offer a neat finish.
- The positioning of the valve in this installation allows the user to turn on the shower from outside the cubicle ensuring they don’t get wet whilst turning the shower on!
Thanks for reading, if you are looking for a decent quality shower valve please see my supplier’s site here!
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